42. Lats ‘n Longs and Musty Drawers — At Sea Between the Manila and California — March 7 – 11, 1938

Day-to-day journal

[Present location:] 
Lat. 25° 53' N
Long. 163° 05" E
Dist. 354 mi.
Av. Speed 15.01 mph 

Mon. Mar 7: Filled with good intentions for work, it's bright cool, sunny. Said hello to Shag and stayed until after 10. Session with J. on time, hour angles, tec. Morse - I get progressively worse.

[Present location:]
Lat. 27° 27' N
Long. 168° 55" E
Dist. 327 mi.
Av. Speed 13.85 mph 

Tue. Mar 8: J. woke me at 6. At 9:00 had a session on longitude with J. before I went topside. Capt. set me problems until lunch.

Warm enough for Sam and me to have a sun bath on top of #3 Hatch.

Walk with Sam after dinner, visited Shag, then read Sam's articles until 10:45. Lesser Sundas Maluccas. Feel as tho I begin to have some small idea about them. 

Side note: For those unaware, like me, the Lesser Sundas Maluccas are part of the water they were bobbing upon, as they worked their way from Manila to Los Angeles.

This was the penultimate leg of her globe trot.

[Present location:] 
Lat. 29° 01' N
Long. 174° 57" E
Dist. 333 mi.
Av. Speed 14.10 mph Wed.

Mar. 9:  Spent two hours finding out where we were at 8:55 this morning. Capt. gave me the works - Lat., chron., D.R., H.A.T.S., polar dist., Co-Lat., and I fumbled thru, making a mistake in arithmetic on every line. 

Side note: For those wanting to learn along with Helen:

  • Lat. = latitude – opposite of Long. For how to find it, see chron.
  • chron. = chronometer – very maritime-y, sleek looking device developed in the 18th century that, through celestial navigation, tells you your Long.
  • D.R. = dead reckoning – guesstimating the position of moving things (like ships) based on moving things of the past (like previous ships). Don’t quote me on any of that though. Here is a better way of putting it.
  • H.A.T.S = Highest Astronomical Tide(s) – guesstimating the highest of high tides in various weather conditions.
  • polar dist. = polar distance – astronomy + geometry.
  • Co-Lat = Co-Latitude – latitude + trigonometry.

While first disseminating Helen’s adventures, I envisioned that maybe I, too, would learn how planes fly or that I would study celestial navigation, because how cool would that be. But plans were quickly squashed at the sight of so much math. So I learned very little, but did purchase a replica sextant in homage (below left).

The sextant that Helen is holding below looks bigger than mine, but mine says it’s a genuine replica that works and such. But with my studies on hold, the sextant is currently serving as a nicknack… one that acts as a perfect segue into a good brag about my Great Aunt Helen.

Cold and raw and rainy. Got out my green knit dress I've carried around the world and this time first time cold enough for it. Had only a few minutes to dress for dinner and had to put it on tho it smells musty. Went over for some Morse, but couldn't stand the smell of the dress so Jim, Shag and I paced the deck to air me out. Beautiful moon but frightfully blowy.

Side note: If ‘musty’ is worse than ‘men-at-sea-for-five-months’, then musty must be dealt with, even at risk of being blown into the Pacific.

There’s a chance that this was the musty dress
[Present location:] 
Lat. 30° 32' N
Long. 179° 13" E
Dist. 317 mi.
Av. Speed 13.00 mph 

Also Wed. March 9 - Got out the flannels and sweatshirt, for winter has come, and we are a heaving up and down over this wave and that wave. Shag and I watched our wake boil and burble.

Side note: No R.E.Is then for water-wicking, temperature-gauged, ultra performance gear. Back then they had to rough it in flannels… or snuggle in them, and maybe that’s what Helen and Shag were doing while watching the heaving, burbly sea ❤️.

2nd longitude - comes out at 180° 13" E'., which isn't possible - I would have problems like this just at the date line. Read. Had a chance to live 1 yesterday over, and did no better with it. Have an attention span of a very few minutes. Don't like to read indoors and too raw and windy outside. Nuts to knitting. Shag and I especially close today.

Side note: She sounds uncharacteristically annoyed until the last line. But that last line, like most lines relating Shag, is characteristically vague.

[Present location:]
Lat. 30° 48' N
Long. 173° 32" W
Dist. 294 mi.
Av. Speed 12.48 mph 

Thru. Mar. 10 Worked another long. Got exactly the same as the bridge huzzahs! Warm enough for a little while after lunch for a sun bath on Hatch 3. Aired my suitcase. It's hard to keep things from getting musty, and since the canvas went up again yesterday, it's dark as a pocket in our room. 

Side note: I wonder if she had just one suitcase for the five month trip. She’d mostly be on a freight boat, but did need items for formal situations at ports like dinners and dancing. Maybe she had suitcase like one of these from the era. And maybe a toiletries bag like that. A camera, film, a few books. A tiny journal with minuscule penmanship. See journal picture below, on the right topped by my old iPhone XR, which was a wee 3″ x 6″.

My late uncle Bob (Helen’s nephew), bless his heart, transcribed every word of her tiny-scripted daily goings-on from this trip — and her lists and measurements and charts and weights and prices and side observations — into his computer in the early 2000s. He did this all by typing while squinting at the tiny text, and using a magnifying glass here and there. He then printed it, 70 pages, and sent paper copies to the family, including me.

When I ultimately read it, I excitedly underlined and starred and circled things, and bracketed sections, and wrote in the margins. This made the software I used to scan and digitally transcribe the printed version, confused, and it made a lot of ###&&&()^s. I had to re-transcribe a lot of it. This is how we learn lessons.

And while we’re talking about Bob, the future heroic transcriber… in March of 1938, he was a dapper three year old in New Jersey. He will play a big part in Helen’s life many decades after this trip.

This is a year or so later, but that’s Bob and my mother, in 1939ish
Morse after 3 day rest and no better for the vacation. Gave Capt. a start when I went up at 9:30 p.m. and knocked just as Lady MacBeth was murdering sleep. 

Oh, the bookkeeping joys of a master. Three kinds of insurance for every member of the European crew, health, old age pensions, ship wages and draws to be paid in every kind of currency. Debits and credits from London, from the agents. 

Visit with Jim from 11 - 1. Wonder if my influence on him has been good or otherwise. Washed my hair at 3 p.m., can't get soap out, hair gummy and dandruffy.

Side note: I can’t figure out what the murdering sleep reference means in this context. Was Capt. having a restless sleep? Was he snoring? Reading Shakespeare?

[Present location:] 
Lat. 31° 01' N
Long. 167° 11" W
Dist. 327 mi.
Av. Speed 13.87 mph

Fri. Mar. 11: Another double page of longitudes. Typed from lunch until tea time, making copy of Capt.'s ship adoption letters. Ruthie and I took a fast one from stem to stern - cold dismal day, tho the sea is very calm.

Side note: To close out, let’s look at some of Helen’s beloved lists and study notes and measurements and diagrams from said journal, all neat and tiny and precise.

41. Sextants, Mast Climbing, and Hop Scotch, The Philippines to At Sea, Mar 1 – 6, 1937

The After-the-Trip Letter

When we reached Manila we felt as though we were practically home, and the twenty days across the Pacific were the shortest ever, in spite of the extra Wednesday after we crossed the International date line. 

Side note: Twenty short days for pondering big questions. To recap: a super young smart and accomplished race-car driving hottie has asked (more than once) for her hand in marriage.

Unfortunately, we don’t know much about her feelings about all of this because, in her journal, Helen only goes into detail about every single thing except her thoughts about said hottie, so we must ponder as well.

The Day-to-Day Journal

[Present location:] 
Lat. 15° 30' N
Long. 129° 21" E
Dist. 297 mi.
Av. Speed 12.54 mph

Tue. Mar. 1: Seas somewhat less turbulent, tho the Mate got one over his head on the fo'castle head this a.m. Ruth still seasick. James and I did a little Morse this a.m. first time in months.

Side note: Fo’castle is the shippy-ist ship term ever. It is also known as fo’c’s’le, which is vaguely shippy (to a Canadian-American who knows little about things).

[Present location:] 
Lat. 17° 26' N
Long. 138° 38" E
Dist. 330 mi.
Av. Speed 13.95 mph

Wed. Mar. 2: Took my first sight since Ceylon. Very busy with knitting, reading, ironing. Had a session with J. on navigation, and later one on Morse.

Side note: Taking a sight has to do with navigation and probably involved the sextant. So let’s look at a picture of Helen with one:

Helen and sextant, at sea, 1937 or 1938
Came from Shag's at 9 and Sam read me the first chapter of his book. On deck to sleep out and found my hammock gone. Captain had borrowed it, since his room is being painted. Stayed out 'till midnight, J. left at 11. Plenty of hills in the sea tonight.

Side note: Though there were salt water peaks and valleys heaving and collapsing around them, they were leaving from a warm place near the equator so pleasant enough for deck sleeping.

[Present location:] 
Lat. 19° 26' N
Long. 139° 45" E
Dist. 315 mi.
Av. Speed 13.31 mph 

Thur. Mar 3: J. woke me at 6 a.m. per instruction. Back to study navigation this a.m — no enthusiasm for work. Knit some. Pouring rain at intervals, very hard after dinner. Morse — Shag.

Have a dog as cargo, Jim and Alec have monkeys, the rabbit is forlorn.

Side note: Firstly, this schedule and work she frets over is 100% self-imposed.

Secondly, the animals: the rabbit was mentioned near the beginning of the trip as belonging to the ship’s crew (and if it was meant to lure the female civilian passengers to these men, it was doing its job). The histories behind the dog and the monkeys are unknown, but in my version they befriend the sad rabbit, have fun adventures, and live happily ever after.

[Present location:] 
Lat. 21° 07' N
Long. 145° 23" E
Dist. 330 mi.
Av. Speed 13.97 mph 

Fri. Mar. 4: J woke me at 6 a.m, I turned out to find it was damp and gloomy, went back to bed until 8:30. By that time it had warmed up, sun up brightly, ocean gloriously blue. Sam and I walked, Capt. came along. I broached the subject of a climb up the mast, he didn't say no.

Went up on the crosstree, our world looked very small. Sam came up. Shag and camera arrived just as I came down. Sam gave me some snaps, he took over 600 study "days work" and the fog begins to lift once more.
Taken perhaps after mast climbing. Helen is on the right. The other person is likely Miss Sparks, who is about Helen’s age, and I’m absolutely she sure has a second arm. Miss Sparks was the one lured by the rabbit.
Think now I can get back into the study habit. Took a sight at noon. Dictated numbers for Chief's abstract — 4:00 p.m. — 5:20 p.m. Morse with Jim. Conversation with Shag. Capt. putting up my hammock when I came back. Both feeling restless — I went topside — his room is back to right, looks fresh and nice. Had some Lion Brand. To bed in the hammock but too windy, in at 12:30 a.m.

Side note: I think Lion Brand is tea. And I wish she would spill some of it! Also, since she’s taking sights again, now’s a good time for another sextant picture.

Helen and Capt, Silverwillow, 1937 or 1938

[Present location:]
Lat. 22° 46' N
Long. 150° 57" E
Dist. 328 mi.
Av. Speed 13.88 mph

Sat. Mar. 5: Sam and I felt the need of exercise. We laid out a hop-scotch on the After Deck and jumped around for half an hour. He and Shag climbed a cable, but I can't hold up my weight on one.

Finished with a Shandy in Shag's room and it was suddenly 11:30. Studied, knit, read in p.m. Read numbers for chiefs abstract. Morse. Shag. Reading.

Side note: Swirled a shandy at Shag’s… touche.

The Chiefs Abstract is like the boat’s deed.

Here is a picture of part of the deck if you wanted to visualize the hop scotch.

Helen and crewmen (likely Shag standing), deck of the Silverwillow, 1937 or 1938. I bet she did not arrive on the ship with grubby workmen coveralls.
[Present location:] 
Lat. 24° 12' N
Long. 156° 51" E
Dist. 336 mi.
Av. Speed 14.23 mph 

Sun. Mar. 6: J. woke me at 6 but I couldn't struggle up before breakfast. Sam, Shag, Mitchell, Alec, Bill and Spectators had fun with a glorified hop-scotch game. Glorious warm sunny day. Sun bath after lunch. Jim started me on longitude this p.m.

Helped chief finish his abstracts after tea. Morse after dinner. Shag and I listened to music from Germany until 9:15. Came back to find lights out and everyone in bed. Took my book up and read with Capt, until 11:00.

Side note: Google won’t tell me how they were listening to music from Germany. A marine radio? A record player? While trying to find out, I learned that the Nazis had two designations for music: The Reich Chamber of Music (music deemed German enough by Nazis) and Degenerate Music (Jewish and Black musicians). I hope what Shag and Helen were listening to until exactly 9:15 was Degenerate Music.

16: ‘At Sea’ to afloat-off-Africa, Nov 22 – Dec 2, 1937

The letter

First, the perfectly concise bit from the after-the-trip letter:

One night I woke suddenly...something was different, and then I realized the engines had stopped. I went on deck and there to starboard twinkled millions of lights around the crescent of Table Bay. Overhead hung the constellation of the southern Cross. South Africa!

Side note: Land ahoy!

Table Mountain, South Africa, after 23 days at sea, December 1937

The journal

She’ll do most of the talking here, but I will say, the last sentence of the first paragraph below is another example of why journals are great. We transition effortlessly from heavenly skies to more backhouse trots (remember, those aren’t a dance).

Mon. Nov. 21: 

[Present location:] 
Lat. 5° 43' S
Long. 26° 04" W
Dist. 314 mi.
Av. Speed 13.24 mph. 

The water tonight a delicious inky black, the curling foam a swift white flash with an occasional phosphorescence. Watched the moon come up. A cloud bank gave the effect of a mass of liquid white heat, poured into fantastic shapes etching a silver pencil line around the cloud making it glow with some inner light. At last its final form emerged in golden radiance to begin its nightly voyage across the heavens. Four passengers laid up with diarrhea this morning, something they ate, no doubt. 

Side note: Masterclass level transition, no?

Tues. Nov. 22: - First planking on Capt.'s boat this a.m. Using the sextant for the second time, I took the Altitude and worked the latitude within 2 min. of the official one on the bridge. Capt. seemed pleased. 
Helen Skinner, M.S. Silverwillow, somewhere on Atlantic Ocean (this might be the Planking she mentions? Her planking must be different from the planking that is core strengthening and/or a dumb meme from 2010ish)
Into my monkey suit after lunch and did some more painting on the life boat. Read "Silas Crockett". Morse at 7:30, Jim sent while Roy took it down, and after numerous unsuccessful struggles, I managed eight words a minute. Marked a course on the chart, learning to apply deviation and variation. Had my first trick at the wheel for five minutes. Slept in the hammock.

Wed. Nov. 23: Lost my favorite scarf overboard in the interests of navigation — while I had the sextant in my hand, and nothing could be done about it. Found the Lat. within 1 min. of the official one, again. Capt. bragged on me at lunch. Spent the p.m. painting gear from #1 life boat. Lesson in Morse with two assistants. Chatted with the Engineers on my way "home" tonight. Finished "Silas Crockett". Turned in early. Saw the inside of the funnel today. 

Side note: Sextants are still carried on ships and crew should know how to use them. Actual vintage ones are expensive, but I found a replica made to look old that is neat to look at, fun to play with, good for storytelling, and a nice knick knack. But also incredibly complicated and with no autofocus. As for finding altitude and latitude and the other things with that little device, here’s a 25 minute video of numbers and maths and calculations and complexities that make my eyes glaze.

Here is my replica sextant:

It is upside down in one of the photos, but 100% right side up in the other

Thru. Nov. 24 My first bloater for breakfast today, very good. Figured compass courses, correcting for leeway, variation, deviation. Painted about 1/3 of lifeboat #1. Thanksgiving -- saloon decorated with British, U.S., and Union of South Africa flags. Each setting had a place card with a jingle, done by Daisy Mount. Topside afterward. Capt. let me read the letters he has written to the school he has adopted. A number of British Captains under the "Adoption Society" have schools to which they write, about once a month, telling of activities on board ship and places visited. What a stimulus to the study of geography. Capt. let me check a code radiogram he is sending. First time I've seen an official code book. Drew names for our share in the Christmas party.

Side note: A bloater is not gas, as I first assumed (she is very open about bodily things!). It is a smoked herring.

Also, the book she finished above, Silas Crockett, is about generations of maritime families and the women who ran them.

This must be the place setting at Helen’s Thanksgiving seat: 

Helen’s place setting at Thanksgiving, 1937, and it’s perfectly personalized — nice that aviation and navigation rhyme.

It’s a wee blurry, so:

Skinner, Miss Helen
She has studied aviation
And its twin art, navigation
The code de Morse
Is in her course
So she works like all tarnation
M.V. Silvervillow
Thanksgiving Day. 1937.

Fri. Nov. 25: Chipping paint on the deck below us — sounds like a boiler factory. Worked problems in the Meridian Altitude. Apprentices have half day off to study, so I sewed sail for the new boat. Another Morse lesson until rain drove us inside — 185 letters, 4 mistakes. Cold, we had on coats, wrapped in blankets. Passed 100 mi. west of St. Helena today. Read "Thirteen Women" by Tiffany Thayer. Myrna Loy played in the movie, the book is trash with some very clever lines.

Side note: ‘Trash with some clever lines” is actually quite kind from her.

Sat. Nov. 26: Chief took me on a tour of the engine room at 9:00, have been trying for weeks to get to it, seems to me diesel is far superior to steam. Started by compressed air — enormous engines at 115 rpm drive us thru the water. Saw the refrigerating plant, the fresh water distiller. Wish I could remember it all. Sewed sail instead of study, but went up on Monkey Island at noon to see the sun at 87° Altitude, probably the highest I'll ever see it. Could see it in the sextant all around the horizon (my Latitude was way off). Jim and I peered at the Weems Air Navigation book. More Morse considerably faster, but it still gets away from me. Phosphorescence on the water.
Helen and the sextant, figuring latitudes, 1937
Sun. Nov. 27: At noon Capt. said, "come on, Navigator" — to Monkey Island, and saw the sun to the north instead of the south, and even higher (88° 49' observed Altitude) than yesterday. Found the Lat. with no help whatever — no formula. Finished the second seam on the sail. Hiked on boat deck after dinner with J., T., S., it was still light at 7:30 p.m. Up at 3:00 a.m. to see the Southern Cross, cold today, wore a suede jacket, came out in a wool dress for dinner. More up and down movement than any time thus far. 

Mon. Nov. 29: Every page in the navigation book uses logarithms, and I never met them in my progress thru math. Spent the morning learning to do them. Found it not so difficult as I expected. Officers came out in blues today. Not warm enough to be on deck except in the lee of the boat deck. Took my letter writing around this p.m. found Shag working on the motorcycle.

Side note: A++ in classes. That old time latitude stuff ain’t for amateurs. And how convenient that when innocently on her way to pen her long overdue correspondence, she just happens upon Shag, hunched over his motorcycle, in coveralls, likely clutching a greasy wrench. And since she’s there she might as well be polite and ask what makes the bike go vroom. From that likely scenario we get very detailed and specific drawings like the one below (spark plugs indeed). I posted this one preemptively in the last blog, but here is where it is supposed to be:

Distributor illustration, presumably by Shad/g, M.S. Silverwillow, 1937
Tue. Nov. 30: Collected a few autographs this a.m. Continued my pursuit of logarithms. Production has sped up, I can sew canvas twice as fast as when I started. Hiked miles with J and S, and more miles on our own deck. Had my first attack of indigo. Called on Ruth, whose innards are miserable. Cold tonight in my green checked jacket. 

Side note: I think indigo means indigestion, but if someone knows more, let me know. Ruth is a civilian passenger, who I’ll be introducing in the next post along with the others. So far it’s been all engineers and Captains. You’d almost forget there were seven civilians elsewhere on the boat.

The passenger and crew autographs she mentions collecting, M.S. Silverwillow, 1937
Wed. Dec. 1: First rough day. Alternate clouds and sun pushing into blue water, piling it into mountainous ridges where the wind whips off the top and flings it into shining rainbows of spray before plunging it in swirling foam aft. The nose plows under a wave, tosses up a white spray to crash over the fo'castle head and rip along the deck on a flying sheet of water. Sin [sine], cos [cosine], tan [tangent], coses [cosecant?], cot [cotangent] took up the morning. Shag and I walked in a gale, and then stood in the lee of a boat watching the elemental forces heaving, piling, crashing, surging away. It was glorious. It's a little moment of ocean I'll always remember. 

Thru. Dec. 2.: Problems in parallel sailing, and using traverse tables. Lone hobnob with Morton, had a tour of the wireless room and couldn't understand the ship's call letters when they came in, --., [GQVY]. The sea is much more calm, a few bumps and some lovely spray.

Side note: Who needs moving pictures when you can paint a scene like that? And then pepper it with trigonometry? And that walk in the gale, my goodness. You can feel the sparks.

Fri. Dec. 3: 3:00 a.m. — woke with a start when the engines stopped. Looked thru the port to see hundreds of lights sparkling dead ahead. Land, after 3 weeks of ocean, went on deck and saw the jeweled crescent of the bay, under the Southern Cross.

Side note: End scene! Doesn’t that last bit sound familiar? She wrote something similar in the letter summarizing the trip and it’s up at the top of this post.

And in addition to being an engineer, she shoulda been a writer. But now she kinda is being one, here in the blog. And we have plenty more where that came from so stay tuned!