The After-the-Trip Letter

Sam and I (he was a passenger we acquired in Java) stopped traffic in Cebu, and the citizenry turned out to stare, for he wore shorts and I had on slacks, and such peculiar creatures had not been seen before in those parts.

Side note: In 1938, women’s slacks were popular (and controversial) in a host of places near and far. Maybe they hadn’t made inroads yet in Cebu though… until now! Helen likely knew wearing them out and about in certain places, like the Philippines in 1938, would induce an eyes-out-on-stems effect, as she liked to say, and I think she liked it that way.

Below are some Helen-in-pants (and shorts) photos from the 1930s; the last one is from this voyage, and perhaps those are the slacks she wore out and about in Cebu.

Since we’re in Cebu, here’s a neat video filmed there in the 1930s that is worth a look see, with its cool old footage of the hustle bustle streets. My notes about it: hemp looks very nicely silky and blonde even in black and white; Cebu was the first European settlement in the region; the Philippines is named after King Phillip II (PHILIPpines), who was a king of Spain. Who knew??

“Sam and I … stopped traffic in Cebu, and the citizenry turned out to stare, for he wore shorts and I had on slacks, and such peculiar creatures had not been seen before in those parts.”

Day-to-Day Journal

Side note: In the day-to-day world, we’ve now left Cebu and are anchoring outside Manila.

Anchor outside the breakwater. Italian ship "Victoria", U.S. Army Transport waiting to go in. Our berth almost last one out. Passengers ashore at 10:30 on a Stevedore's launch. 

To Am. Express, Kodak store, P.O. Met for lunch at "Astoria" on Escolta. Air conditioned, rare roast beef, green beans properly cooked, real strawberry sherbet.

Side note: The Italian Victoria (aka “The White Arrow”, “The Dove of the Orient”, “The Ship of Maharajahs”) was a posh ocean liner famous for its interiors (there are some pictures in that link and they’re regal indeed). Like the M.S. Silverwillow (the ship Helen was on), The Victoria was sadly destroyed during World War II.

Took a car (Y 3. per hour) to Yneko market, lost our minds over fiber matting, bags, etc. 

Thru the poorest part of town, destroyed a few years ago by fire. People living in shanties of rusty tin. 

Thru the walled city, then past the big hotels and clubs. Polo grounds to Rizal, another native village. Huts on stilts, has been known to rain 60 in. in one week. To an ancient church to see the bamboo. Return on Stevedores' launch at 5:00.

Shag and I to town at 8:00, sat in the Manila hotel and watched the world go by. At 9:00 taxi'd to Santa-Ana; the World's largest dance hall. One section roped off for women with escorts; the rest, the size of several city blocks, for Taxi-Dancing with natives. Some very lovely girls, all neatly dressed. First time I have danced with Shag.

Side note: I’ve just learned what Taxi Dancing is (men paying to dance with women) and why it’s called that (woman gracefully ‘taxi’ the men around the dance floor, with each song costing a fare).

The Santa Ana club must have tawdry stories to tell. But also some charming stories, perhaps like the first dance between a dashing young ship engineer / race-car driver and a fast-talking professor, pilot, and consummate flirt, after months of heavy innuendo (from both sides) throughout their courtship at sea.

Here is them:

To Legaspi pier at 2:00 a.m., had delicious apple pie al la mode. Came back in our private launch (Y 1.30). En route back to the boat this p.m. it began to rain torrents, were drenched going up the gangway. 

Went thru the Alhambra Cigar factory. Cigars and cigarettes — long ones with brown paper covers as well as white one and regular size. The cutting in lengths particularly interesting, so quick you can't see the cutting edge. Girls pack them in containers, tell the number by touch alone.

Side note: Sadly, the workers probably were ‘girls’, as they were often children. Here’s a picture from 1930.

Tue. Feb. 22: 

Washington's birthday a holiday here, all "white" stores closed. Stood around on one foot and another waiting for someone to decide what flag to put up to summon a launch. Sooner or later the mate suggested a "J", finally a boat appears. 

Side note: The Philippines was at the time an American colony, hence Washington. And how very colonial to celebrate the former president of the colonist nation, while in the colony, but then only let the colonizers partake.

Shag and female passengers to the Walled City. I bought a Panama hat, asked (Y 5), pd. (Y 4), ($2.) for a white straw summer hat! Bot snakeskin belt, sandals, bill folds, a kimono for Pop, and quite unintentionally, one for myself, a double black and white one. Spent some time prowling around. Back to the ship to go on 4 p.m. watch.

Side note: Shag and female passengers to the Walled City means that 23 year-old boat engineer Shag somehow got tasked with escorting six women — five of them in their senior years — on a field trip. We like Shag for this.

I cannot picture Helen’s father in a kimono. But then Helen tends to look serious in pictures and she is a goofball so who can tell.

Just before dinner my new wisdom tooth began aching in a big way — ate no dinner. Capt. asked me to go to town. I declined, thot I'd be no help to anybody. Tried numerous remedies, final relief with an aspirin — slept like the drugged.

Side note: We will let Helen sleep a bit before the next post, which I must say is quite exciting… like it features contraband, Mr. X, and a big ole question.