In December 1934, Helen travelled, most likely from Gulf Port, MI, to New Orleans, LA, to board the S.S. Sixaloa, a Great White Fleet vessel that was part of United Fruit Company (now known as Chiquita). Like with her subsequent boat travel, this ship’s primary purpose was freight. But unlike the next one she’d take, this one had a pretty swank passenger service. The picture below is the cover from a brochure (acquired from eBay) advertising the trip, one that speaks of smoking rooms, grand pianos, sound movies, and gay soirees. And also quoits (a ‘throw a ring over a stick’ game that probably has a bar dedicated to it in Brooklyn).

(This type of travel still exists, btw — to be one of a handful of civilian passengers on a freight boat, where you float the seas for weeks on end and then spill into the port towns when the crew unloads and reloads cargo. And I want to try it one day.)

Though prohibition had only ended a mere few months before her trip, she comes across quite comfortable with the booze. Not that she imbibed a lot, just that it seems like she was perfectly at home schmoozing, perched on the railing of a freight liner, in slacks, surrounded by men, at sunset in the Caribbean Sea, highball in hand.

Let us travel with her so I can show you, from her first impressions, to her port adventures, to post-coup presidential drive bys, to courtships (more than one even!), to highballs.

The illustration below, also from the brochure, shows her route.

I should state that her notes about this trip are written in a tiny smushed cursive. All of her writing is tiny, but with most of it, if you scan it and blow it up big, you’re golden because the letters are fully formed. But with this, blowing it up helps some but not completely, so certain aspects of things will remain a smushed mystery, perhaps as they should be. Please see Exhibit A below. Also, there are several people named in her notes, but most aren’t really given much depth. Names can for the most part be ignored, except for Dr. and Nic.

On December 15, 1934, the S.S. Sixaloa, “…slid away from the mooring at 11:15, in a shower of streamer confetti.”

Her first impression is that she is pleased her cabin has “…enough room to turn around.” Judging from my one boat travel experience, turning-around-in cabins are indeed a luxury. She also mentions corsages several times on the opening page, and even the next morning, after they slid away, she says she is still wearing two of them. See photo evidence below.

Boxed text is directly from her Cruise Log, and side notes are by moi.

Dec 16: The luxury of it. Chimes sound, but I need not pay attention to them. Had bath in warm salt water with pine scented soap, then breakfast in bed. Visited the Dr., who's been on a cruise with Mr. Cox. 

Side note: Chimes to her are probably school bells, but her only jobs now are self-assigned. Also, the last part, about the Dr., is important, but not the part about Mr. Cox. Stay tuned.

As they floated into Havana Harbor, someone handed her a “Pina Fria” cocktail (quotations hers, and this is a pineapple and rum concoction). They cruised past Morro Castle and anchored at the Santa Clara dock.

We wandered off toward town, pursued by beggar children. Stop at Columbus Cathedral, started by the jesuits, and where Columbus remains buried. Past the President’s Palace to the Capitola. A vastly imposing structure, ceilings hand painted, the library paneled to the ceiling with mahogany. The senate chamber empty -- for congress has fled.

Side note: I don’t know if ‘for congress has fled’ meant they went home for the day or they actually fled. There had been a coup several months prior, and maybe congress wasn’t a priority to the new guy.

Next stop the Romeo and Juliet Cigar Factory. Here we saw Pres Mendieta drive by, and later saw him again.

Side note: I hope she smoked the cigar (if she wanted to, that is). Also, Mendieta was installed that year as an interim president after said coup. He had been at it for 11 months at this time, and was still doing the slow wave drive by, it seems. This would make him far too busy to put together a new congress.

To the beer garden with tropical foliage around the brewery. Free beer for all and dancing, Havana has acquired a taste for beer, it is 5 cents a glass. Impression: a beautiful city, fascinating for its Spanish architecture, clean, a New Orleans polished and bright, exquisite patios even in the poorest districts, magnificent boulevards. The palm lined streets are royal indeed. Hundreds of touring-car taxis, skittering through narrow streets, with sidewalks wide enough for one person. A polyglot population, all shades, and the fewest possible Americans.

Side note: Prohibition had been over for half a year or so, so I doubt there were many beer gardens in the U.S. at this time, so this must have been a new kind of experience. And despite their possible lack of congress and political turmoil, Havana was super vibrant at this time, and would be for a few more decades (at least on the surface).

After dinner, very tired. To Jai Alai game. The guide explained the game, bot* a ball and basket for us to see. The court is 210' long x 50' wide. Saw an elimination 6 point game and a doubles match for 30 points. It is even more fascinating that I anticipated their form, coordination, strength, skill were a joy to watch - and the spectators - cubans who come night after night to bet. And the red beret-ed [word I can't read] were a spectacle to behold. We had to tear ourselves away at 9:20, feeling high and such not the least tired, feeling exhilaration from watching a game! The car was stopped twice en route - seems seven drivers had been discovered carrying dynamite today. Another "Pina Fria" and then back to the boat, sailing at 10. The harbor was glorious at night. Had a daiquiri to celebrate the day, turned in.

*Bot means bought

Side note: Remember she is a Director of Physical Education at this time, so very into athletics. Also, she uses exclamation points extremely sparingly, so she truly enjoyed the game. A little dynamite seems like nothing after the excitement of the day.

Dec 18 - Put on slacks, paced the deck, chatted the Capt, the Dr., the Steward, sat on the rail of A. deck in the sun. Dr. operated on my face. Goggle-eyes treated me to a glass of beer in the evening. Up until 1:30. Date with the chief to go below tomorrow.

Side note: At the time, women wore pants at home, at the beach, and for sport. And perhaps on cruises as well, unless she was trailblazing. She seems to be getting into schmooze mode now, balancing on railings in her slacks surrounded by several non-civilian men (captains, doctors, engineers).

I’m not sure if Goggle-eyes is a term of endearment. The Dr seems to be giving her skin treatment here as well. The true proof of the schmooze is the last sentence above. She does this on the next cruise as well… she talks the ‘chief’ into letting her tour the underbelly of the ship to document what makes it tic.

Dec 19 - Went to inspect the engine room. Triple drive engine, every revolution of drive shaft advances boat 20 ft. Oil burning, use 24 tons a day southbound, 30 tons northbound (on account of the refrigerating machinery). Temp 130 in furnace room. Saw the storage rooms for food, engineering quarters. Met the captain and invited myself to the bridge. Showed me the chart of our location and course. Sam at the wheel. Next inspected the wireless room. I think I have been in every cranny but the galley.

Side note: This is her in her element. Remember I said she wasn’t allowed to study engineering, but that she found her way to it despite that?

Dec 20 - The first real seas we’ve had, I would chose this time to fall off the roof, with cramps. To the Dr after and an arsenic cocktail, otherwise ammonia spirits and Midol. Did nothing all day and the dose worked."

Side note: I have just learned that ‘falling off the roof’ means menstruating. Interesting! So it’s not like she was on a roof and got a cramp and fell off, but she got ladytime cramps. I like how Midol was already being used for these symptoms, but she’s still given booze (arsenic cocktail has absinthe). Ammonia spirits are smelling salts, used at the time to prevent fainting.

Dec 21 - Wakened at 4:45 as we enter the breakwater. First night of Panama by bright moonlight. Shortly after we docked, a good looking Lt came up the gangway, tipped his hat to me ‘Is this Miss Skinner?’ “I am Lt Burnett, aide of General Lytle Brown, Commander of Fort DeLeayer [?]. The general asks me to say that he has gone on an inspection trip this AM, that he had just received a cable asking him the average transportation across the canal. Of course women are not allowed to fly in army planes, but I am at your service, is there anything I can do?

Side note: A gangway, a good looking lieutenant, and a hat tip. Very cinematic no? News that she flew planes must have traveled, but a woman can’t even fly IN an army plane. Pfftt.

The airways agent came on board and 5 of us made arrangements to fly both ways. Was driven to the general’s car, which was parked on the dock (forbidden to other cars). Drove us around Cristobal, Colon, New Cristobal, and put us on the plane. Transcontinental Seaplane flight. 1650 run, 1500 ft, 90 mile speed. It gave a perfect idea of the canal and surrounding territory -- the Atlantic and Pacific sides. Saw many boats going through in no time we were landing at Balboa.

Side note: It must be something to be greeted (in a nice way) by the local military, driven around in an official car (that can park wherever it wants), and to fly up and over the Panama Canal in a little seaplane. She must have done some good schmoozing with someone on board to get this service, which had to have been radioed in somewhere?

Drove to Old Panama, en route saw banyan trees, papayas, sensitive plant. Then it rained, a tropical shower. Dashed back to the car, drenched, and slithered back to town. Went to outdoor market. Spent all my money. There are Hindus, Chinese, Panamanians. Then to Atlantic Cafe. Had rum, guava, and lime. Addictive drink. And then Atlas beer. Danced some to the Panamanian orchestra. The floor show was terrible, 3rd rate vaudeville, but the audience was interesting and I hated to sail away at midnight. The moon was full and gloriously bright. We bounced up and down and hither and thither all night. They drive on the left hand side in Panama.

Side note: Embedded in the paragraph above was a hard to read bit about a man who was a friend of a friend of a shipmate, a Reserve Officer who was an attractive blonde. I assume she got her flirting in with him (meaning likely talking about engines). Atlas beer still exists. This all seems excellent for a port day, despite the rain, and she seems to agree.

Dec 22 - I’ve never felt more exhilarated than I did today, simply loved the rolling. Land on the port bow, and shortly after noon we came close to the shore to see tremendous green headers washing over the point of land outside Bocas de Toro. The headland covered with tropical foliage, tropic huts on the shore. At ‘Mouth of the Bull’ we took on a native gang, went on up to Almirante. There we stayed for eight hours, taking on a load. 150 men in the loading gang. Took on 4000 stems of bananas, and 2500 bags (152 1/2 lb each) of cocoa beans. There are 23,000 acres under cultivation. Beans are shelled, let to ferment, then dried and shipped in bags. The crop is ten million pounds a year. Cost to raise and ship $.26. Watched the loading process. The stem is taken from the car, lifted to the shoulder of a laborer. One with a machete cuts all the ends of the stem, another picks up any banana that is not up to the grade of the rest of the stem. Moved on the belt and each stem counted as it drops into the hold. The dock is in a coconut grove. They opened up green ones and let us drink the milk. Not so good. There is just a small town with a commissary, and a bunch of native shacks. The language is English, spoken beautifully, for many of the natives are from Jamaica. 15 nationalities in the crew. The Dr. very attractive, watched the unloading at Bocas, stood on the promenade deck to see the moon up over the rigging, the surf, the salt air were unforgettable.

Side note: Her actual description of cargo was like three times longer than the above. But more importantly, it appears the sea has wooed her. And so has the allure of all mechanisms of global freight — from the physics of a boat, to the cargo loads, to the (sometimes handsome) people who make it chug along. With whom is she watching all this loading and unloading… drumroll… the Dr.!!

Dec 23 - To the writing room after breakfast to catch up on the log, but the Dr. up and camped, and almost immediately it was lunch time. Up on the bridge deck for a couple of hours in the sun and found the hurricane deck the greatest spot yet. Keno games in the evening. 30 cents was enough to lose, and it was hot on the port side, so I went around to the starboard, the Dr. followed, and we chewed a few rugs.

Side note: I thought ‘chewed a few rugs’ meant talking, as it would seem in this context, but Google gave me answers ranging from Hitler’s fury to dogs-in-a-time-out, but ChatGTP tells me, it might have been energetic dancing. So she shakes it with the Dr on the starboard side.

Dec 24 - Much agitation about a Christmas Party. The great organizer, Mr Hayes, appointed committees galore. I was on the entertainment comm. Ladies shuffleboard tournament. First time I’ve played this trip and my score was 0. Dressed for dinner in outlandish costumes - I was a man in a short throw, long shoes, a straw hat. About 8:30 we docked at Castilla, Honduras. Santa Claus (Mr Hayes) gave out presents around the tree in the drawing saloon, there was hilarity galore, and each member of the crew was given a present, too (87 of them).

Side note: I love picturing this scene, each passenger scurrying around with a role making a party happen. A ship, silly costumes, noisemakers, shuffleboard. Sounds grand.

It was announced that a dance was being held at the club, and that cars would take us over. We dressed in more mature looking outfits and set forth. The ‘club’ is a barny looking place, two huge rooms for dancing, pool, and a bar. Several people made it a party. Teddy had brought a quart of Bacardi. The music was over the loudspeaker, the records were recent, and Nic an excellent dancer, and just the right light. We had a grand time. One of the girls who was dancing sent word to tell me that she recognized me as her PE teach, and sure enough, a Davis was at SPC two years ago is married to a man named Cliff who works for the Fruit. She looked stunning as usual, says she loves it, life is just one cocktail party after another (and I imagine it is). So left before twelve, walked back along the waterfront under the coconut trees and a tropic mood - and Christmas Eve - wee! Nic came back on deck after he put on his working clothes, and we chatted until his watch came up, when we all discoursed until after 2. It was a 3 when the last elevator stopped and more than half an hour until we set sail. The lights of Truxillo [sp?] across the bay will always remain mysterious, for we came and sailed again in the night.

Side note: Regarding dancing… she doesn’t elaborate, but notes on her timeline show that she attended dance seminars and conferences over the years. So she knew how to cut a rug. And then this engineer, Nic, the wonderful dancer, starts showing up more in her notes. But what about the Dr.!?

Dec 25 - Christmas on the Caribbean. Slept late. Did a little letter writing. Cigarette day. After lunch the Dr came by cabin. The Chief Engineer came to visit. About 2 began to see the coast of British Honduras as we came toward the harbor - mountain rising from the sea, jungle clad. Landed toward four at Puerto Barrios, Guatemala. The Dr. took me to see Barrios [discuss ovulation - fertility 16th day from 1st of menses]. We walked out past the commissary, the native houses are mostly built on ‘stilts’ for when it rains it rains. After dinner we had some dancing on the deck - but I almost forgot the dinner - horns and other noisemakers on the tables, and a box of candy for everyone. Had a daiquiri and then ate endless round of many courses, delicious, ending with fruit cake and bisque tortoise.

Side note: She does not specify which cabin the Dr. came to visit, but I’m assuming it is hers. A check up? A flirt session? But then the Chief Engineer comes to visit as well (this must be Nic). So popular! And then to town with the Dr, where they discuss ovulation. Then more dancing, taking turns with both Nic and the Dr (this part is scribbly, but I’m pretty sure that is what is said). Then, not included above, there are some disjointed notes about a criminal trial on the boat, where she was supposed to be a witness for the defense. She says, “I was subpoenaed to appear, but Nic & I stood on deck.” Some weird role playing shenanigans among the passengers?

Dec 26 - Repacked somewhat, and felt in a little better order. Word came Nic wanted to see me. At 2:30 I went to the engine room to call on Nic. Visited for an hour. After dinner the passengers played a game and nominated a Governor amid much hilarity. Nic cam up and we stood on deck from 7-11. Heavy date!

Side note: More role playing onboard. Four hours is a long time to stand on a deck, no? And ‘heavy date’. Hm.

Dec 27 - On the wireless operator. Saw Nic for about an hour.

Side note: The game they played on the 26th seems to be spilling into events of subsequent days. This ‘Governor’ went on to have a full on campaign, involving treating the passengers sorbet. Then there was a speaker series or something and a finance scandal. I can’t read half of it, but it is going on while Helen is being courted by Nic and/or the Dr. Someone was then thrown out of the election while Helen was visiting Nic in the bowels of the boat, in the wee hours.

Dec 28 - They woke us at 6 as we came into Havana Harbor, it took ages to get into the dock. Went then El Canto the Department Store. Bot liquor, went to the Bacardi plant and had daiquiris in the bar upstairs. To French Brothers. To Jigg's cabaret. Good orchestra, native and U.S. music, we danced and danced and he is good at that. Had to come start the engines at midnights, and we left shortly after 12. Watched an exquisite moon as we slid out past the Morro Castle.

Side note: That they had to go start the boat indicates that she was with Nic the Engineer, and they had to run back to the boat at midnight. Does Dr. know??

Dec 29 - Sunbathe. Saw many porpoises. Meeting of a committee to form an Alumni Association of the cruise. Had some rum with Doly (sp?) but he gives me a pain. Nic came up, but the Capt was on a tear, so he went down early.

Side note: More Nic, and he seems to even get in trouble.

Dec 30 - Glorious bright morning, but the officers are back in their blues. Sunbathed a couple of hours. Nic cam up at 11:30. He showed me a picture of wife and two children. Visited the doctor before and after lunch. About 3:30 we ran into fog. Blowing of horns. Dropped anchor. We were fog bound. A bell rung every 30 sec and a foghorn did likewise. Good food and noise makers. Clarence furnished cocktails.

Side note: Nic is married!! And now the Dr is back. Twiiist.

Dec 31 - 1 a.m., still at anchor. Fog horns blowing. "At anchor" bells ringing and they rang until after 7 a.m. Cleared as we went up the river - but dull life lorn scenery. Chatted the Chief on river currents, politics and religion. He's a dear. Visited with Nic an hour - to see the Dr, and after lunch finished packing. Quarantine at 3:30, the Dr. boarded, counted noses. Adieu to Nic. According to instructions, stood on the gangplank until we docked and the luggage got off. I dressed for the party which had been in full swing since dinner. Had several glasses of champagne and walked on the beach. The firecrackers went off, the bells rang, and 1934 was gone.

The end

But wait! So many questions unanswered!! And no hope for a sequel. Did she say goodbye to the Dr? What happened on thae ‘heavy date’ with Nic the Engineer?? There’s truly no way to know. So we can only absorb what we have, and that is that she visited dynamic ports, breathed in salty sunsets, chewed a few rugs, soared in a seaplane, flirted unabashedly, bot cigars, drove in military escorts, drank tropical cocktails, and more…. and it all likely influenced her future, as she’d do this again in a few short years. And the next engineer wouldn’t be married…